"Rio Hiking and Denise Werneck are a frequent travelers dream. I signed up for a Saturday hiking tour to the peak of the Tijuca National Park. The park and hiking are part of Denise's life as is the neighborhood of Santa Teresa which the group toured afterwards. She shared with us the things she loves and the things she likes to do. Saturday evening.... live samba in Lapa... more of the reality of life in Rio. Things and places I would not have experienced without Rio Hiking."
Jerry Levine / New Jersey, USAThe forest and hike were fantastic; the hike was not too difficult, although the extreme heat made it seem tough. The district of Santa Teresa was also an interesting contrast to the Rio that we had seen the past 6 days. Very charming (in its own, South American way), with turn of the century buildings and arts & crafts stores. We stopped for lunch and some feijoada (a must eat while in Brazil) and caipirinhas (a must drink while in Rio). Denise lives in the area, so we got the most out of our excursion. Often when traveling, we are lucky enough to get to know locals, who can give use the "inside scoop" on what is really going on in town. However, sometimes you aren't that lucky: if you're staying at a hotel or hostel, you usually get the same tired old "touristy" things to do. Denise gave us about 2 dozen ideas on the way to the forest, along with insights on Rio that we hadn't come across. On our way back, Denise said she would take us to a samba school in the evening. There are lots of structured tourist samba shows (Plataforma is the biggest), but from what I've seen they are just glorified Vegas shows. We were actually going to go to the Mangueira samba school, one of the largest and most popular. On the edge of the favela (slum) most people are warned not to go here, but it was clear from when we arrived that the place was safe. We went "early" (11:30 p.m.) to catch a slower version of the samba, but when the Carnaval "rehearsal" came on at about 12:30, I experienced one of the true wonders of my lifetime. The atmosphere is incredible, not to mention the wall to wall dancing. If someone were to tell me that I would have to pay for my entire trip and just see the samba school, I would do so in a second.
David Banman / Canada"If you plan to spend some time in Rio, make your trip even better by booking RioHiking for the afternoon, the day or the week. We "found" them via the internet and what a find they were. We booked the Sugar Loaf tour for our first day in Rio and loved the tour and Gabriel so much, we booked another tour and THEN another. Denise and Gabriel are gracious hosts of Rio, very knowledgeable, very enthusiastic and each will go out of their way to make your tours and your entire trip even more memorable. Whatever Denise or Gabriel suggest to do - DO IT! This will allow you to see what the natives of Rio do on their Friday nights or Sunday mornings. Make sure you book the Santa Teresa tour with Gabriel and after the tour, talk him into taking you to his favorite neighborhood bar for some sun-dried meat and a few "chops". This will allow you to escape the mainstream tourist attractions for a few hours and enjoy a taste (both literally and figuratively) of the real Rio.It is evident that Denise and Gabriel love their job and more importantly love their city -- spend time with them and enjoy their enthusiasm."
Kelli & Paul Di Cesare / Ohio,USA"As a Canadian foreigner working in Brazil, I had been to Rio several times and done all the regular tourist attractions several times... This time around, visiting again with some Canadian friends, I was looking for something special and different to do. Finding a leaflet I had picked up on a previous trip, I sent an E-Mail to RioHiking and made arrangements to hike up Pedra da Gávea. Not only was RioHiking very quick in answering all of our questions, they also sent us some very interesting tips about Rio, tips that only a "carioca" can know !!! On the day of the hike, we were picked up at our hotel by our guide, Gabriel, who took us by 4X4 to the start of the trail and off we went ! The hike is not an easy one, but every step is worth it and very challenging. The first part, going through Atlantic forest and ruins of an old coffee mill, was a good warm-up and we saw several small monkeys who seemed to be wondering where the "gringos" were going ! The path climbs up relentlessly, but Gabriel, who could probably find his way to the top blindfolded !!!, allowed us to rest regularly and kept a good pace, as the sun finally managed to shine through the early-morning cloud cover. Finally, we broke through the foliage and found ourselves at the foot of the Pedra, with only small bushes around us and a clear view of Barra beach and the ocean, of the green hills of Tijuca park, of the hundreds of tiny houses below. While we admired this view, Gabriel was busy climbing up the rock face and setting up rope and harness for us to safely go up a short but very steep portion of the trail. "We are almost there, and the view is much better", he kept saying, urging us on. About half an hour later, we stepped onto the flat rock of Pedra da Gavea, overlooking Rio. What an unforgettable view ! Worth all the hard work of hiking and climbing ! Truly a pristine moment where, unlike Pão de Açúcar or Corcovado where hundreds of tourists pass by, we were alone and serene. Just us and Rio to admire. We had a small lunch there, spent some time walking on the top, and started our long way down to Barra beach and a nice "coco verde bem gelado" ! Truly a fantastic day, made pleasant by our guide Gabriel. We highly recommend this tour for anyone who loves nature and a challenging hike, and wants to see beautiful Rio de Janeiro from a different perspective, away from the regular tourist crowds. Thanks RioHiking !!!"
François Godcharles - Canada"If you are lucky enough to book a tour with Denise and her son and partner Gabriel, you will have seen Rio, the way it should be seen.... from a more local, yet lively point of view.
It was great and quite easy to get out of the bustle of the city for the day, get introduced to some gorgeous countryside in Tijuca National Park and return for the famous Rio nightlife. Santa Teresa is a very cool place - kinda like the quieter neighborhoods of San Francisco, Rio-style.Aside from the hiking, Denise and her crew took it upon themselves to introduce me to some of the best music I have ever seen. Most of the other tourists I met in Rio were stuck in Ipanema and Copacabana, and seemed to be locked into the tourist traps. Denise and her crew are very clued into the music scene in Rio - Samba, Forró, Chorinho, etc., and knew where the best places and bands were playing on any given night. I will never forget the music or the party that is Lapa on Friday - oh yes, and the guidebooks tell you to keep away from Lapa. You haven't seen Rio, if you don't go there. An experience I would recommend to my friends' back home and to anyone who is willing to get off the well-beaten tourist path."
Kewin Maguire - Boston, USAIf the showgirls in Copacabana or Ipanema Beach are the reason you came to Brazil, by all means, that is where you should be. However, if your interests are more in meeting real people and having an actual exchange, you would do well to see Rio with RioHiking. We were fortunate to meet Denise Werneck early, just a few days into our stay in Brazil. Her travel advice, her immediate understanding of what we were seeking, and her introductions were invaluable. What is more, she is fun to be around. She is a dynamic lady.
Rio is a dream. We stayed in a guesthouse in Santa Teresa which she recommended, and the district is clearly one of the most elegant, if a little unpolished, neighborhoods in any city, anywhere.
Brendan Brady / New York, USAThe trip to Ilha Grande was the highlight of my stay in Rio. After an hour's drive and an hour and a half ferry-ride, one reaches a small village on the island's shore where there are only two cars - for the police and the fire department. The day-long trip involves pleasant hikes (barefoot if you wish!) along forest trails and sandy beaches and a spectacular boat trip back to the harbor. The island is a state park, development is largely absent due to the fact that a high security prison was located there until the late 60s (Denise, is that right?), and all its natural beauties are virtually left intact. The white sand squeaks under your feet, enveloping you in warmth and softness; the ocean spreads out in front of you glistening in multiple shades of blue; the water springs are clear and can quench your thirst after the hike along the soft dirt paths. Ilha Grande is a hidden jewel where one can find peace and complete relaxation in stark contrast with the urban Rio frenzy. If you are staying in Rio for more than one day, do not miss this opportunity to see a true tropical paradise island which has nothing in common with the glittering tourist extravaganza. The Ilha Grande experience will give you a true appreciation for Brazil and for life the way it really should be lived.... I wish I were a Carioca...:)
Maria Ivanova - Bulgaria"Serrinha is a fantastic place to visit, but you won't find it in the Lonely Planet guide to Brazil. Why? Because Serrinha is quite hard to reach by public transport, and it doesn't have a sophisticated well-developed tourist infrastructure, so most travelers who head to this area go to Visconde de Mauá or Itatiaia. I was delighted to go there for the first time with Denise, who has been coming up here for years with her friends and family. I can't say enough good things about Serrinha, and if you're looking for an uncrowded place close to nature, this is it. What makes it fantastic is that it is situated between two rivers flowing down from the Itatiaia mountains and borders the National Park, with its lush Atlantic rainforest. We started the day by hiking up one of the rivers for several hours, and it was great hearing and seeing the abundance of water flowing over smooth granite boulders, watching large butterflies and small birds flutter around. The place is totally unspoiled. Only a couple of hours drive from Rio, Serrinha is a great way to spend the weekend."
Andrew DraffenAuthor of the Lonely Planet Rio and Brazil
guidebooks"Hiking with Gabriel on Sugarloaf Mountain was by far the highlight of my recent stay in Rio for a week. The hike was challenging with exquisite views all along the way. Gabriel loves his country and any part of hiking or climbing, and he is quick to share his knowledge of the outdoors or Brazilian history and cultural aspects with his hikers. With so many tours/hikes to choose from, I am already trying to figure out how can I return and do another one with such a talented and personable tour guide as Gabriel!"
Helen Sia"Even if you already visited one of Rio’s most famous landmarks before, you haven’t really experienced the Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf mountain) until you’ve hiked it. Sure you can take the tram up with all the other tourists but hiking up is a thoroughly satisfying experience, rewarded with view after view after view and the sweet satisfaction of having it done your way.
Looking up at the solid granite Pão de Açucar it seemed almost impossible to walk up but with the guides from Riohiking we set off from Praia Vermelha and picked up the trail at the base of the mountain where it juts out into the ocean, guarding the entrance to the Bay of Guanabara. The first magnificent views are of the fort of Niteroi and the white beaches and lagoons beyond.
Slowly winding our way up, we encountered playful sagui monkeys vying for our attention and caught glimpses of lizards scurrying off the trail. With plenty of water and view breaks, I was about half way up the trail when I got the first full glorious view of Copacabana and Ipanema beach; the picture perfect postcard view of glistening sand and ocean framed by the surrounding hills. Speaking of picture perfect, bring plenty of film, as each view is better than the last.
Just below the end of the trail, the guides roped me up for a very short section of rock climbing. More a scramble than a climb, no experience is required and the challenge of finding your way up is a fun way to end the hike. Even better was the feeling of accomplishment when I climbed over the fence that cordons off the viewing platform and I strolled out to find the glorious city of Rio laid out at my feet. My legs still a bit wobbly from the workout, I couldn’t help but smile as I watched everyone else pile out of the gondola knowing I had come up the truly scenic route!"
Alexandra de Vries
Author of the Rio and Brazil Frommer's guidebook


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